Three students sit in front of a multicolored rug tapestry.

WSU wine science students experience Moldovan winemaking traditions, culture

By Angela Sams

CHIȘINĂU, Moldova — During a recent trip to Moldova, Washington State University students toured medieval ruins, a monastery, and subterranean caves where monks hid from enemies while protecting wine, a historically symbolic and religious product in the eastern European country.

“Learning about Moldova really opened my eyes to how they value their wine as a livelihood and culture,” said Julie Hilland, a graduate student in WSU’s Department of Viticulture & Enology (V&E). “It was inspiring to converse with people about their historical and agricultural challenges, from medieval to modern times, and how it has shaped their wine heritage and traditions. They want to celebrate this with the world.”

A group of five people stands in front of three flags.
WSU students, staff, and faculty visited the Technical University of Moldova to build on a partnership established last year. (Photo courtesy of Kaury Balcom)

Supported by the V&E Experiential Learning Fund and a U.S. State Department-funded grant received by the Technical University of Moldova (TUM), the trip built on a 2024 partnership established by the two universities. The WSU visitors, which also included staff and faculty, received an overview of TUM’s academic programs, collaborated with TUM faculty and students, and toured the university’s facilities, including recently remodeled labs.

As one of the two WSU graduate students on the trip, Hilland shared the grape smoke exposure research taking place in Associate Professor Tom Collins’ lab at the WSU Wine Science Center.

“I was honored to present,” said Hilland, who is pursuing a PhD in horticulture. “This trip was a really exciting opportunity. I wanted to learn about Moldovan wine production and see the winemakers’ artistry and passion for their product. I also wanted to understand their challenges and successes and how those compare to the U.S.”

The trip solidified WSU undergraduate Cecilia Sevier’s desire to work abroad after graduation.

“One reason I’m drawn to this industry is because it’s very internationally collaborative,” said Sevier, a senior V&E major. “This trip proved that. It was an amazing chance to connect with winemakers outside of the U.S. and see what students in Moldova are learning and what they want to do with their education.”

A group of six people smells and tastes glasses of wine while standing next to large metal wine tanks.
The group sampled several Moldovan wine varietals and toured multiple wineries during the trip. (Photo courtesy of Kaury Balcom)

Throughout the weeklong visit, the group sampled Moldovan wine varietals including Fetească albă, akin to a muscat or muscadine; Fetească regală, similar to a Pinot noir; and Viorica, a dry, citrusy orange wine that pairs well with the local cuisine.

“I was thrilled to return this year, this time with both undergraduate and graduate students, to engage in hands-on learning opportunities that foster global collaboration, experiential education, and cross-cultural understanding between WSU and Moldovan wine scientists, educators, and producers,” said V&E Department Chair Jean Dodson Peterson.

The itinerary included stops at the Cricova and Asconi wineries, where the group learned how the country’s wine industry supports its citizens. The group also learned more about local history during a day trip to Old Orhei.

“Winemaking isn’t just a business for Moldovan people,” Sevier said. “It’s part of their tradition and culture. It was really inspiring to be part of that, even for just a short while.”

Sevier was especially struck by the humbleness of the Moldovan winemakers.

“Moldova has one of the oldest wine industries in the world, and the winemakers never seemed to be bragging or trying to prove something,” she said. “They were so excited to share their wines and hear which ones we preferred and why. The community aspect of wine is at the center of everything they do.”

A group of five people stands in a room with white tiles on the wall. Nearby, there are many wooden racks filled with wine bottles.
Left to right: Cecilia Sevier, Mackenzie Aragon, Jean Dodson Peterson, Kaury Balcom, and Julie Hilland. (Photo courtesy of Kaury Balcom)

As the trip ended, the students attended the Moldovan Wine Festival, a lively cultural celebration that included wine tasting, crafts, music, and other activities.

“Experiencing the level of enthusiasm the Moldovan people have for their wine was galvanic!” Hilland said. “From historical events to modern research, Moldova is the perfect balance of production and artistry.”

Both Hilland and Sevier hope the connections they established with TUM faculty and students during the trip will remain as they pursue future careers in the wine industry.

“This trip made the world feel smaller in a good way, and it changed my perspective on wine as a whole,” Sevier said. “It made me feel like a student of the world, rather than just one university. I now feel so much more ready to be a part of this industry when I graduate.”